To the British, Tenerife Holidays mean one thing: "tacky costa culture and year-round sunshine". But the largest of the Canary Islands has so much more to offer, says Philip Smith in the Guardian.

It is quite possible to enjoy Tenerife's good weather, low prices, beautiful beaches and spectacular mountains while avoiding all resorts.

The ideal base is the "exciting" capital, Santa Cruz, which has been "transformed" in recent years by a series of grand architectural projects. Following hot on the heels of Santiago Calatrava's "breathtaking" waterfront auditorium is a new art gallery by Herzog & de Meuron, like a "sci-fi set" hewn from the island's black volcanic rock.

In the evenings, superb local food and vivacious nightlife are to be found in the old colonial neighbourhood of La Noria.

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